Monday, September 22, 2008

Machu Picchu


On the right, the Machu Picchu valley with the site of the ruins marked M, Wayna Picchu marked W and Putucusi marked P

Machu Picchu meaning 'old peak' in Quechua was constructed about 1460 at an elevation of 2400 M on a steep hilltop with only 2 points of access, one involved crossing a 20M canyon on 2 tree trunks with a 570 M drop below and the other was and is via a narrow high mountain pass to the sun gate along what is now known as the 'Inca trail'. Fortunately for me, a completely new fleet of 30 air-conditioned Mercedes buses were added to the otherwise difficult access points in 2006.
Three windowed temple at Machu Picchu

Photos thanks to delange.org


Theories abound as to the purpose of the Inca city and as to why Machu Picchu was abandoned less than a hundred years after construction despite it being in such a delightful location. In any event, the Spanish later arrived led by the treachorous Pizzaro but never found the 'lost city of the Incas'. It was 're-discovered' in July 1910 by Hiram Bingham, a Yale archeologist who promptly removed anything of value and brought it back to the States. In 2007, the Board of Yale finally agreed to return all the goodies to Peru once the locals agreed to follow the usual museum protocols for priceless treasures. On a more negative note, despite being declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1983 and in contravention of a Peruvian High Court Order, there has been an almost unbridled expansion of the tourism trade surrounding the ruins. In the 90's, a ceremonial altar was removed to create a helipad for the $800 a night Orient Express Group hotel which sits at the entrance to the ruins and more recently part of the temple of the sun was damaged by a crane during the making of a beer commercial! (See photo)
The Intihuatana Stone 'the hitching place of the sun' aligns with the winter Solstice
The obvious damage to the Intihuatana Stone caused during the making of a beer commercial...
Apparently, the entire structure is also slipping approximately a foot down the steep mountainside each year and the crumbling lower ruins are supposedly evidence of this. Doomsday prophets say that with a little help from a reasonable sized earth tremor (the region is volcanic), that the entire site may end up in the Urumbamba river. Happily, the helicopters have now been banned and hotel guests have to settle for the express queue for the Mercedes buses. Anyway, thats the blurb, here's a few of our photos...



The 3 Amigos at the top of Wayna Picchu looking down on Machu Picchu




Speeding ticket in Court 54 on Monday at 11? Sorry mate, no can do!



The steep ladders (220 foot ladder on the left) leading up to Putucusi are not in great condition and we thought a makeshift rope was a sensible idea!


Don't do it - Camelback dont make parachutes.


Monday, September 8, 2008

Climbing to Huancayo

MAJESTIC ANDES



Back up in the High Andes, the teddy bear faced Alpacas are well equiped for freezing conditions
Well I'm glad to say that the Gringo Circus has arrived in Huancayo which seems a bit more civilised so I will use the opportunity to bring the blog right up to date before heading to bush camps back in the mountains this week.

In my last blog, I gloated that we had a 70k downhill 4 days ago... well did we pay for that downhill. On Friday, we had a 2700M 120k uphill into a headwind. I know its not a major incline over 120k but it just would not end and with 40% less oxygen, it was difficult. We got home just before dark after 10 hours in the saddle. All we could say on arrival is "Me duele el culito!"(My ass hurts)

And so we arrived at Cerro Del Pasco, a mining town which is the highest town in the world at 4,400M! Although tired and very cold (its winter here), Equipo xtremepaddies immediately seized the opportunity to find the worlds highest pub and so we had a pint at 4,301 Meters in bar 'Trapiche'. When we ventured back outside, it was snowing!



Sean, Bene, Mick, Kirsten, Len & Ewald in the worlds highest unheated pub (we think). Check out the altimeter showing 4,301 Meters - Johnny Foxes take note!



Bene (sun-kissed from the 36C temperatures a few hours earlier) decides to record our short visit to Cerro Del Pasco... what a STAR!


And the following morning was a cold start to a 134km spin through the Andes while staying above 4000M.



Sean & Mick making plans for a new ski resort in the Andes... and the scenery is spectacular! Below 7am on the road again...







Down at 3,600 M, the sun warms us up a little




Andre shows the off his road rash and celebrates becoming the 8th official member of the Xtremepaddies awarded for bravery in this case - 17 intermuscular stitches after 4 or 5 hours standing on the side of the road and not a whimper out of him. Fortunately, it wasnt his drinking arm and his general performance has not been affected!

FYI - The Xtremepaddies was formed when myself and Mick skied over the roof of an inhabited house in St. Anton on a powder day 7 years ago - a relatively small 15 foot drop into fresh snow -- but then we had only just learned how to ski! This remains the basic entry requirement but we will always consider outstanding achievements - evidence required. Don't be stupid though - thats for the Darwin Awards. S.




Adios amigos.